: Romantic Germany
: Schauffler, Robert Haven, 1879-1964
: Cities and towns -- Germany Germany -- Description and travel
: New York : The Century Co.
: University of California Libraries
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XIITHE CITY OF DREAMS S the small railway-carriage crept along,with- frequent stops, it began to fill withold-fashioned men, quaintly dressed, whouncovered and made courteous inclinationsto all present. Every one began to say,God greet thee! to every one else. Last of all came a small, wizen figure in a low,round, black peasants hat, abbreviated pantaloonsof buff, and a short jacket trimmed with a doublerow of large stone buttons. He was simple, genial,very ancient, and in his thin white locks and kindlywrinkles he would have made Diirer surpass his por-trait of Holzschuher. More than once afterward Imet him within his native walls, and his well-pre-served beauty came to be for me a living symbol ofthe place itself. The Rothenburger still keeps his conservative re-sentment toward such a crass new invention as therailway. It was characteristic of him that when the 358
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THE MAKKUS TOWER THE CITY OF DREAMS hateful thing had to come, he hid the station half amile from his walls. After a discouraging walk between modern build-ings, I came finally to a round arch flanked by squattowers, passed over a water-filled moat, the veryscum of which was more beautiful than ordinaryscum, through a humpy gate-house, over anotherbridge, under a lofty, square tower inlaid with coatsof arms, and found myself at length in the City ofDreams, so complicated is the approach to that en-chanted spot. Nichts gleicht an deutschom ZauberDir Stadt im Tal der Tauber sang the poet— (No other German magic may availTo match thine own, town of the Tauber-dale) — and once inside the Roder Gate it is evident that hesang true. Right and left run the old city walls, and at aglance one knows that he is in the presence of a Ger-man Carcassonne. These walls are of gray stone,tinged with brown, and covered with a sloping roofof crumbling, orange-red tiles. Along the inside,supported by
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